Camden Hills State Park – Camden, Maine

I have fond memories of this park from my childhood. We would spend at least a week or two in my mother’s home town of Eastport, Maine during the summer. My father was one who never wasted a minute of his vacation time so we would set off Friday night after school as soon as my father got home from work for our vacation week. Pulling a trailer it took us about 7-8 hours to get to Eastport so we would stop about half way at the Camden Hills State Park. Camden itself (see post) has many aspects of the quintessential Maine coastal town with its bustling main street and harbor. But because of our late afternoon / early evening arrivals my experience was with the state park we would make camp in. As my father and mother settled into the site we kids would head across the road to the beach section of the park for some tide pooling.

New photo by Wanderlust Family Adventure / Google Photos
New photo by Wanderlust Family Adventure / Google Photos

The other major attraction of the park is the auto road up to the summit of Mount Battie. You are rewarded with spectacular views of Camden and its harbor. Edna St. Vincent Millay, the Pulitzer Prize winning poet, says it best with her verse inspired by Mount Battie.

Renascence:
All I could see from where I stood
was three long mountains and a wood;
I turned and looked the other way,
and saw three islands in a bay.

New photo by Wanderlust Family Adventure / Google Photos
New photo by Wanderlust Family Adventure / Google Photos
New photo by Wanderlust Family Adventure / Google Photos
New photo by Wanderlust Family Adventure / Google Photos
New photo by Wanderlust Family Adventure / Google Photos
New photo by Wanderlust Family Adventure / Google Photos
New photo by Wanderlust Family Adventure / Google Photos
New photo by Wanderlust Family Adventure / Google Photos
New photo by Wanderlust Family Adventure / Google Photos

The complete poem:

All I could see from where I stood
Was three long mountains and a wood;
I turned and looked another way,
And saw three islands in a bay.
So with my eyes I traced the line
Of the horizon, thin and fine,
Straight around till I was come
Back to where I’d started from;
And all I saw from where I stood
Was three long mountains and a wood.

Over these things I could not see;
These were the things that bounded me;
And I could touch them with my hand,
Almost, I thought, from where I stand.
And all at once things seemed so small
My breath came short, and scarce at all.

But, sure, the sky is big, I said;
Miles and miles above my head;
So here upon my back I’ll lie
And look my fill into the sky.
And so I looked, and, after all,
The sky was not so very tall.
The sky, I said, must somewhere stop,
And—sure enough!—I see the top!
The sky, I thought, is not so grand;
I ‘most could touch it with my hand!
And reaching up my hand to try,
I screamed to feel it touch the sky.

I screamed, and—lo!—Infinity
Came down and settled over me;
Forced back my scream into my chest,
Bent back my arm upon my breast,
And, pressing of the Undefined
The definition on my mind,
Held up before my eyes a glass
Through which my shrinking sight did pass
Until it seemed I must behold
Immensity made manifold;
Whispered to me a word whose sound
Deafened the air for worlds around,
And brought unmuffled to my ears
The gossiping of friendly spheres,
The creaking of the tented sky,
The ticking of Eternity.

I saw and heard, and knew at last
The How and Why of all things, past,
And present, and forevermore.
The Universe, cleft to the core,
Lay open to my probing sense
That, sick’ning, I would fain pluck thence
But could not,—nay! But needs must suck
At the great wound, and could not pluck
My lips away till I had drawn
All venom out.—Ah, fearful pawn!
For my omniscience paid I toll
In infinite remorse of soul.

All sin was of my sinning, all
Atoning mine, and mine the gall
Of all regret. Mine was the weight
Of every brooded wrong, the hate
That stood behind each envious thrust,
Mine every greed, mine every lust.

And all the while for every grief,
Each suffering, I craved relief
With individual desire,—
Craved all in vain! And felt fierce fire
About a thousand people crawl;
Perished with each,—then mourned for all!

A man was starving in Capri;
He moved his eyes and looked at me;
I felt his gaze, I heard his moan,
And knew his hunger as my own.
I saw at sea a great fog bank
Between two ships that struck and sank;
A thousand screams the heavens smote;
And every scream tore through my throat.

No hurt I did not feel, no death
That was not mine; mine each last breath
That, crying, met an answering cry
From the compassion that was I.
All suffering mine, and mine its rod;
Mine, pity like the pity of God.

Ah, awful weight! Infinity
Pressed down upon the finite Me!
My anguished spirit, like a bird,
Beating against my lips I heard;
Yet lay the weight so close about
There was no room for it without.
And so beneath the weight lay I
And suffered death, but could not die.

Long had I lain thus, craving death,
When quietly the earth beneath
Gave way, and inch by inch, so great
At last had grown the crushing weight,
Into the earth I sank till I
Full six feet under ground did lie,
And sank no more,—there is no weight
Can follow here, however great.
From off my breast I felt it roll,
And as it went my tortured soul
Burst forth and fled in such a gust
That all about me swirled the dust.

Deep in the earth I rested now;
Cool is its hand upon the brow
And soft its breast beneath the head
Of one who is so gladly dead.
And all at once, and over all
The pitying rain began to fall;
I lay and heard each pattering hoof
Upon my lowly, thatched roof,
And seemed to love the sound far more
Than ever I had done before.
For rain it hath a friendly sound
To one who’s six feet underground;
And scarce the friendly voice or face:
A grave is such a quiet place.

The rain, I said, is kind to come
And speak to me in my new home.
I would I were alive again
To kiss the fingers of the rain,
To drink into my eyes the shine
Of every slanting silver line,
To catch the freshened, fragrant breeze
From drenched and dripping apple-trees.
For soon the shower will be done,
And then the broad face of the sun
Will laugh above the rain-soaked earth
Until the world with answering mirth
Shakes joyously, and each round drop
Rolls, twinkling, from its grass-blade top.

How can I bear it; buried here,
While overhead the sky grows clear
And blue again after the storm?
O, multi-colored, multiform,
Beloved beauty over me,
That I shall never, never see
Again! Spring-silver, autumn-gold,
That I shall never more behold!
Sleeping your myriad magics through,
Close-sepulchred away from you!
O God, I cried, give me new birth,
And put me back upon the earth!
Upset each cloud’s gigantic gourd
And let the heavy rain, down-poured
In one big torrent, set me free,
Washing my grave away from me!

I ceased; and through the breathless hush
That answered me, the far-off rush
Of herald wings came whispering
Like music down the vibrant string
Of my ascending prayer, and—crash!
Before the wild wind’s whistling lash
The startled storm-clouds reared on high
And plunged in terror down the sky,
And the big rain in one black wave
Fell from the sky and struck my grave.

I know not how such things can be;
I only know there came to me
A fragrance such as never clings
To aught save happy living things;
A sound as of some joyous elf
Singing sweet songs to please himself,
And, through and over everything,
A sense of glad awakening.
The grass, a-tiptoe at my ear,
Whispering to me I could hear;
I felt the rain’s cool finger-tips
Brushed tenderly across my lips,
Laid gently on my sealed sight,
And all at once the heavy night
Fell from my eyes and I could see,—
A drenched and dripping apple-tree,
A last long line of silver rain,
A sky grown clear and blue again.
And as I looked a quickening gust
Of wind blew up to me and thrust
Into my face a miracle
Of orchard-breath, and with the smell,—
I know not how such things can be!—
I breathed my soul back into me.

Ah! Up then from the ground sprang I
And hailed the earth with such a cry
As is not heard save from a man
Who has been dead, and lives again.
About the trees my arms I wound;

Like one gone mad I hugged the ground;
I raised my quivering arms on high;
I laughed and laughed into the sky,
Till at my throat a strangling sob
Caught fiercely, and a great heart-throb
Sent instant tears into my eyes;
O God, I cried, no dark disguise
Can e’er hereafter hide from me
Thy radiant identity!

Thou canst not move across the grass
But my quick eyes will see Thee pass,
Nor speak, however silently,
But my hushed voice will answer Thee.
I know the path that tells Thy way
Through the cool eve of every day;
God, I can push the grass apart
And lay my finger on Thy heart!

The world stands out on either side
No wider than the heart is wide;
Above the world is stretched the sky,—
No higher than the soul is high.
The heart can push the sea and land
Farther away on either hand;
The soul can split the sky in two,
And let the face of God shine through.
But East and West will pinch the heart
That can not keep them pushed apart;
And he whose soul is flat—the sky
Will cave in on him by and by.

Kancamagus Highway, New Hampshire – Road Trip

The White Mountain National Forest in New Hampshire has a 32 mile section of NH Route 112 called the Kancamagus Highway. It is a premier three season travel destination and the ultimate short New England road trip. You can enter the highway either from the Conway / North Conway side or the Loon Mountain / Lincoln side.

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The highway is perfect for cool weather hiking in the spring and fall, swimming in the summer and fall foliage in the autumn. If you are planning on stopping at any of the attractions along the highway you should stop at a ranger station for information and to pay a fee.

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There are also fee stations at the various stops along the route.

New photo by Wanderlust Family Adventure / Google Photos

When coming from the Conway side of the highway the first thing you will come across is the Albany Covered Bridge. This is wonderfull any time of year but is spectacular in the autumn when the colors are in full bloom.

New photo by Wanderlust Family Adventure / Google Photos
New photo by Wanderlust Family Adventure / Google Photos
New photo by Wanderlust Family Adventure / Google Photos

Boulder Loop trail is a moderate level hike nearby. As you proceed up the highway you will be running parallel to the Swift River with numerous opportunities to stop and wade or just admire the scenery.

New photo by Wanderlust Family Adventure / Google Photos
New photo by Wanderlust Family Adventure / Google Photos

Lower Falls is the prime swimming hole on the river. Many a summer day was spent growing up sitting under the waterfalls and floating down the rapids in this area. There is a picnic facililty and restrooms available.

New photo by Wanderlust Family Adventure / Google Photos
New photo by Wanderlust Family Adventure / Google Photos
New photo by Wanderlust Family Adventure / Google Photos
New photo by Wanderlust Family Adventure / Google Photos
New photo by Wanderlust Family Adventure / Google Photos
New photo by Wanderlust Family Adventure / Google Photos

Sabbaday Falls lays at the end of a short hike,

New photo by Wanderlust Family Adventure / Google Photos

and Rocky Gorge is where you used to be able to jump off the short cliffs into the gorge below (no longer allowed).

New photo by Wanderlust Family Adventure / Google Photos
New photo by Wanderlust Family Adventure / Google Photos

There is also a short walk over the small bridge which leads to a picturesque small New England monutain pond.

New photo by Wanderlust Family Adventure / Google Photos
New photo by Wanderlust Family Adventure / Google Photos
New photo by Wanderlust Family Adventure / Google Photos

At the top of the mountain there is an observation deck and some nice views of the surrounding mountainside.

New photo by Wanderlust Family Adventure / Google Photos
New photo by Wanderlust Family Adventure / Google Photos
New photo by Wanderlust Family Adventure / Google Photos
New photo by Wanderlust Family Adventure / Google Photos

All along the entire route there are numerous trailheads of varying difficulties and lenghts and several campgrounds some of which are open all year. A great road trip any time of the year.

Cape Ann Road Trip – Massachusetts

Cape Ann on the north shore of Massachusetts contains the towns of Gloucester, Rockport, Essex and Manchester-by-the-Sea. Considered Massachusetts’ second “cape” it is full of beaches, shopping and other attractions.
We headed down from our home in New Hampshire and as it was about lunch time as we were passing J.T. Farnhams we decided to stop and get some takeout. Farnhams is one of three iconic fried seafood restaurants in Ipswich, Massachusetts. Woodmans and the Clam Box are the other two. Woodmans is the inventor of the fried clam but all three have wonderful fried seafood.

New photo by Wanderlust Family Adventure / Google Photos
New photo by Wanderlust Family Adventure / Google Photos

Food in hand we made our way to Stage Fort Park in Gloucester. We enjoyed our fish n chips and seafood platter before exploring the park.

New photo by Wanderlust Family Adventure / Google Photos
New photo by Wanderlust Family Adventure / Google Photos
New photo by Wanderlust Family Adventure / Google Photos

The park was the site of the first group of settlers in Gloucester in 1623.

New photo by Wanderlust Family Adventure / Google Photos

We proceeded down the cor-niche in Gloucester stopping at the memorials to the fishermen and their wives on the pedestrian walkway.

New photo by Wanderlust Family Adventure / Google Photos
New photo by Wanderlust Family Adventure / Google Photos
New photo by Wanderlust Family Adventure / Google Photos

After driving along the cor-niche we took a right leading us to the Eastern Point Lighthouse at the entrance to Gloucester Harbor. There are two lighthouses here the main one on shore and one out on the long breakwater reaching out into the harbor.

New photo by Wanderlust Family Adventure / Google Photos
New photo by Wanderlust Family Adventure / Google Photos

We passed through the shops and restaurants in downtown Gloucester on our way to our next stop Rockport. In Rockport we explored Halibut Point State Park.

New photo by Wanderlust Family Adventure / Google Photos
New photo by Wanderlust Family Adventure / Google Photos
New photo by Wanderlust Family Adventure / Google Photos

Last on the itinerary was photo ops at some of the beaches in Rockport catching the pounding surf during a very windy day.

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A beautiful sunset capped a wonderful day.

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Fall Foliage Road Trip (New Hampshire) 2017

It was a little late in the year but we decided to take a leaf peeping road trip the weekend of October 21, 2017. We had heard that it was past peak season in the White Mountains so we headed for the New Hampshire Lakes District. We made our way to Weirs Beach on Lake Winnipesaukee. I felt the colors were slightly before peak as there was still a lot of green but there was definitely some nice patches.

New photo by Wanderlust Family Adventure / Google Photos
New photo by Wanderlust Family Adventure / Google Photos

Endicott Rock Park offered some nice shots as well.

New photo by Wanderlust Family Adventure / Google Photos
New photo by Wanderlust Family Adventure / Google Photos
New photo by Wanderlust Family Adventure / Google Photos

We continued along the lake shore past the Mount Major trail head. Although we did not do the trail this year this is one of the best places to take in the fall scenery. The 2-4 hour moderate hike offers spectacular views in all seasons but most especially during peak foliage. The trail head was packed with cars lining both sides of the road on this beautiful autumn afternoon without a cloud in the sky.

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There is a corn maze and working farm with tractor rides and demonstrations right of the highway. A bit crowded on the weekend but still fun with some nice scenery of the farm and surrounding hills.

New photo by Wanderlust Family Adventure / Google Photos
New photo by Wanderlust Family Adventure / Google Photos
New photo by Wanderlust Family Adventure / Google Photos

Alton Bay needed another week to be the best.

New photo by Wanderlust Family Adventure / Google Photos

It was quite late but we decided to check out the Kancamagus Highway to see if there was any remnants of foliage left. As we ascended the mountains most of the leaves at higher elevation were well past peak. There was some color left in the valleys and on south facing slopes but it was not the best. We pushed on hoping that the Albany Covered Bridge at the end of the highway would still have some color. We were richly rewarded as the colors around the bridge were still peak.

New photo by Wanderlust Family Adventure / Google Photos
New photo by Wanderlust Family Adventure / Google Photos
New photo by Wanderlust Family Adventure / Google Photos

Camden, Maine

Camden, Maine is an idyllic New England coastal town and holiday destination. The charming town was used for location filming for the movie version of the popular 1956 novel Peyton Place. A soap opera in the 60s was also produced. As you head north on US Route 1 you will first enter the town center. There are numerous shops and restaurants lining the streets with the marina just past the main drag.

New photo by Wanderlust Family Adventure / Google Photos
New photo by Wanderlust Family Adventure / Google Photos

As you pass the marina on the right you will get to the area where there are some spectacular hotels and guest houses mixed in with some extraordinary mansions. It is fun to take a stroll or slow drive past the mansions and marvel at the extravagance of the oceanfront homes.

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My mother was born in Eastport, Maine and we took an annual pilgrimage to my grandmothers house every summer. Leaving the Boston area and pulling a travel trailer we would stop halfway to Eastport in Camden Hills State Park. We would camp in the camping area on the left of the highway. One of my favorite early memories was eating lunch when we arrived. We would often travel with my Uncle Fred and Aunt Peggy and prior to leaving Uncle Fred would pick up deli meat from the North End in Boston and we would make spukies when we got to the campsite. Access to the rocky Maine shore line is across the street.
Adjacent to the campground is the auto road up Mount Battie. Views from the top of the mountain are fantastic.

New photo by Wanderlust Family Adventure / Google Photos
New photo by Wanderlust Family Adventure / Google Photos
New photo by Wanderlust Family Adventure / Google Photos
New photo by Wanderlust Family Adventure / Google Photos
New photo by Wanderlust Family Adventure / Google Photos

You can definitely make Camden more than a one day stopover. There is culture with the opera house and galleries, adventure with the schooners and harbor cruises and ample hiking opportunities.